Imported from other countries, roasted and distributed by large manufacturers, the coffee brewed at most coffee shops can often sound far from special.

At Breakers Coffee + Wine, the narrative on how coffee is cultivated is being rewritten.

Starting this summer, one of the latest additions to the Carmel Valley/Del Mar area will harvest its own coffee beans from a local farm ― something unknown in California.

In 2019, the coffee shop’s owner, Cardiff resident Kyle Rosa, leased 5 acres of land in San Marcos, using it to plant more than 2,000 coffee trees (often called shrubs depending on the height) in the middle of an avocado grove in the hills.

Day by day, the plants at his Bluetail Coffee Grove have been growing to provide six varieties of arabica beans. In a few months, Rosa plans on welcoming his first harvest, making his coffee, food and wine hub among the first to locally source, roast and sell its own beans.

While the fruits of his labor aren’t expected for a while, it will be a remarkable moment given the farm’s unique location. Coffee is normally cultivated in subtropical or equatorial regions like Colombia, where rain is abundant.

For a state that has droughts as a recurring event, many wouldn’t consider California an option for coffee farming. In fact, the last time the state experienced a years-long shortage of water was from 2012 to 2016, according to the California Department of Water Resources.

Nevertheless, Rosa has continued with his project, leaning toward a regenerative farming approach with organic coffee shrubs certified by the agency of California Certified Organic Farmers.

“It’s really this play with nature that we’re trying to figure out how to do,” Rosa said. “Being organic adds another layer to it where we need to use things naturally found instead of pumping chemicals.”

While Rosa awaits his first harvest, he has been working with smaller boutique farms from Guatemala and Brazil that export green coffee beans. Since the shop’s opening a few months ago, these beans have been roasted, brewed and served at Breakers Coffee + Wine. The goal is to replace those beans with the locally grown ones by the end of this year.

Locally grown or imported coffee, the shop has still received a positive welcome by both locals and foreigners. Take Cheryl Gowie, a visitor from Canada, for example.

“We’ve traveled a lot and we don’t know of any coffee shop that has an upcoming farm,” she said while taking a sip of her cappuccino. “That is spectacular.”

Brittney Mitchell, a local who has visited the café a few times, also shared her fondness of the place.

“The look of the place really drew me in,” she said. “Every time I come in, I have a really great experience.”

Coffee Breakers + Wine is located in Del Mar Highlands Town Center at 12843 El Camino Real, Suite 205.

Roxana Becerril is a local freelance writer.

Do you have a favorite independent North Coast coffee shop you’d like to see featured in the Current’s Real Beans series? Let us know at info[at]northcoastcurrent.com.

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